the Art of DMITRY SHARAFUTDINOV Arco 2011

The Arco World Championships was a two faced affair, at least concerning the bouldering. On the bright side was solid route setting, stunning performances and the realization how high the standard is meanwhile, especially in countries that usually don t compete in the world cups (for many reasons). On the dark side we an arrogant organization that was unable to cope with the many competitors and clearly not interested in bouldering at all. Lets start with the bright side though (see pics from Arco from the perspective of the German bouldering team here ) We have 2 welldeserved winners Bouldering World Championships have their own rule, one is, they all boulder well, and in the end a russian boy wins (as it has been from 2005 on). When Rustam Gelmanov and Dmitry Sharafutdinov executed their first problems in the semis it became clear to all their competitors that they intended to write this rule in stone. The same is not quite true for the girls, but how Yana Ch