Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharmas Demencia Senil (9a+), The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5

Italian strong man Stefano Ghisolfi made a pilgrimage to the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef to attempt a piece of climbing history. Demencia Senil first established by Chris Sharma in 2009, is a monumentally steep roof climbed almost exclusively on small, sharp pockets. The brutal nature of the climbing means that it has seen relatively few repeats and even fewer since a crucial hold was broken. Stefano and fellow Italian Gabri Moroni are in Margalef to try the line, working out a new way past the broken hold and trying to dial in the insane monodyno that is the only way through the final section of roof. While Gabri is unsuccessful, Stefano puts in a precise redpoint effort and clips the chains. His story in Margalef is far from over however and he plans to return for another Sharma classic; First Round, First Minute Source